La Bourse等La Vie
当丹尼尔·罗斯(Daniel Rose)开业时Spring,这是一家在第9座不明的街道上的一家小型季节性驱动的餐厅。这位才华横溢的厨师迅速传播了一句话,他帮助助长了巴黎烹饪中年轻厨师的革命,其中大部分以法国为灵感,但额外的重点是采购最好的季节性水果,蔬菜,鱼类和肉类。
As an American, Daniel didn’t have fixed ideas about how things should be, and used ingredients that were decidedly French – part of a now full-blown movement in Paris amongst a younger generation of chefs, who are putting more vegetables forward on their menus, accenting plates with unexpected seasonings, using less sauces, and lightening up plates, which eventually became part of an international conversation about the current and future state of French cuisine.
这些较小的地方大多数都被包装了,但丹尼尔采取了重大举动,采取了行动Spring到另一个社区,提供比以前更复杂的菜单。(他还在附近重新开放Chez La Vieillein Paris, and opening another in New York.) Spring restaurant had been a success in its spiffier incarnation, but Daniel Rose decided to take a look back at classic French bistro cooking in his new place, applying the same insistence he’s known for in his other restaurant, on the quality of ingredients and careful preparation of the iconic dishes that many of us know and love. It’s obvious onthe menu,在盘子上,厨师玫瑰也对他们有着深切的感情。
I’ve had a couple of meals atLa Bourse等La Vie,这个名字是“您的钱包或生活”。(读者巴黎的甜蜜生活会想起我的困惑Le Bourse,这也意味着法语中的阴囊。)我肯定会放弃(尽管我会坚持自己bourse,非常感谢……)另一个奇妙的Gougères坐下后不久,带到桌子上。金色棕色的脆皮奶酪泡芙是巨大的,就像您得到的奶酪一样Chablis的面包店。他们将一半切成薄片,这是一件好事,因为如果我有自己的话,我可能会没有余地吃晚饭。
订购鹅肝洋葱酱然后,您将为您提供几块巨大的鸭肝板,上面有温暖的吐司,一堆片状的法国海盐和胡椒粉在顶部,这都是鹅肝的真正需要。
Poireaux vinaigrette是一块可爱的婴儿韭菜,上面放着来自皮埃蒙特(意大利)的烤榛子,被广泛认为是他们的流派中最好的。并且我同意。你们中有些人知道我为他的韭菜醋添加了一些培根的责备,“有人”最终来到了,榛子是我下次要尝试的。
但是开胃菜的杀手级应用可能是huîtresgratinées,三架牡蛎上面放着一只荒谬的诺曼底奶油,然后在盐床上烘烤,直到变成褐色和起泡为止。
我第一次访问时让他们非常爱他们,以至于我告诉了朋友的年迈的法国母亲。她来自布列塔尼(Brittany),当她听到人们煮新鲜牡蛎时,她被惊呆了。(与鲜奶油,也是吗?!)我也喜欢牡蛎资料。但是快速烹饪确保了这里的牡蛎在浓密的新鲜奶油毯子下保持多汁和酥脆,与坐落在下面的咸双壳类融合在一起……等待被勺子倒入……我很高兴地做到了。
在我第一次访问时,我有Pot-au-feu,法国经典的英语翻译 - 煮牛肉晚餐 - 并不是很公正。(这不是单词的字面翻译,而是英语的菜。)法语版本通常在课程中提供,一碗汤开始。然后,肉和诸如第二芥末,玉米琴,粗盐和辣根等调味品以及旁边的调味品一起出来,欢迎您按照自己的意愿挑选嫩牛肉和蔬菜的碎片。
在La Bourse等La Vie, 这Pot-au-feucomes out in a well-used copper pot and is lightened and brightened up with a flurry of fresh herbs, a clever touch that you won’t find in a stodgy bistro. Because the dish came from humble beginnings, it usually includes a beef bone, served with a narrow spoon to dig out the jelly-like marrow.
我喜欢这道菜,然后再订购。(一次又一次。)实际上,昨晚我和一个朋友共进晚餐,当我们谈论这家餐厅时,我们俩都同意Pot-au-feuwas the dish to have. I did try a fried quail with buckwheat that was on the menu, on a subsequent visit, that were pieces of deep-fried quail which had been dipped in a buckwheat batter (Caille Frite Au Sarrasin),这更像是即兴演奏炸鸡,这是我在地球上最喜欢的东西之一,而不是在小酒馆里找到的东西。我不太期待它,花时间试图偷偷溜走罗曼的口味pot-au-feu,我敦促他订购,这是几次零食比一盘鹌鹑轻的次数之一。
人们很难想象一个小酒馆没有Steak-frites甚至是角落TABAC菜单上会有。正确完成时 - 牛肉和一堆新鲜制作的炸薯条煮至酥脆,这是我最喜欢的菜之一。
On the initial visit, a group of friends and I had reservations for the second seating and I am pretty sure we were the only Americans in the place. (Even though two of us live here.) The second time I was at the first seating dining with Romain, and he was in the minority. I like a mix of people and it’s encouraging to see people traveling who like to eat well, since I’m one of those kinds of travelers myself.
这家餐厅很紧凑,因此无论您坐在哪里,您都可能像我们一样与一些邻居进行对话。对于那些想“像当地人”的人,如果您愿意,您可能想为以后的桌子预订。由于餐厅的尺寸很小,因此强烈建议您提前预订。
我是简单法国甜点的粉丝,焦糖焦糖位于该列表的最高点。与我的一小群朋友一起用餐时,一个人拥有一家很棒的餐厅in the United States, and she’s a terrific baker, too. We both agreed that this was one of the best versions of crème caramel that we’ve had.
后来,我得知,在蛋ust中添加了奶油,将其与香草种子一起将其带到了顶部,这是您在法国找不到的扭曲。(我在加利福尼亚的一家墨西哥餐厅工作了一段时间,当我在我的同事中添加香草时,我的同事感到惊讶水果馅饼,因此,加法可能是美国的补充吗?
La Bourse等La Vie
12 Rue Vivienne(第二)
tél:01 42 60 08 83
(建议预订。)
注意:自写这篇评论以来,近年来价格上涨。检查他们的网站以获取当前菜单和价格。