This year was a good year for baking books. I didn’t get to see them all, or bake from them, but one that I got a preview of before it was released wasDessert Person经过Claire Saffitz。She may be familiar to you because of her tenure in the在BonAppétit测试厨房and more recently,her very popular online videos那but reading through the book, I learned that she just happened to have gone to Harvard, was a graduate student in French food history in Montreal, studied pastry atEcole Ferrandi在巴黎，并在现在关闭的工作Springrestaurant, which jolted me back that era in Paris when a younger generation of chefs was opening restaurants and changing the game in France (sometimes,controversially),focusing on fresh ingredients and putting their own mark on French cuisine.
这就是我对她的书的看法。克莱尔几乎改变了糕点游戏。保存的柠檬被添加到辉煌的柠檬蛋白蛋糕中，巧克力和榛子丰富Galette des Rois，咖啡发现了咖啡味的咖啡蛋糕。（以前没有人想到这一点？）但是这些燕麦和山核桃果仁脆饼干对我来说听起来如此美好，我决定开始与他们开始。
I should also note that I was surprised to get a shout-out in her book. I never dreamed any of those whippersnappers with their newfangled video programs even paid any attention to me. But Claire kindly gave me props (andJames Beard）鼓励她的五香柿饼蛋糕。所以不要把我算出去！
Not all the recipes in the book are easy, though. But she’s extremely diligent in letting you know both the active time and total time it’ll take you to put together each dessert. (I never know how people figure those out, but I’m glad someone else knows how to do it.) She also assigns a rating to each recipe, from 1-5, or Very Easy to Very Challenging. But flipping through the book, a majority of the recipes fall between “very easy” and “moderate.” Even better, while some may call for an ingredient, like preserved lemons or turmeric, most of the recipes include things either you likely already have on hand, as I did for this recipe, or things you can find in any well-stocked supermarket. Thank you Claire!
People ask me how I can tell if a cookbook is good even before I’ve made anything from it. From a baking standpoint, if an author is specific about certain details and tells you what to look out for, and sometimes what they’ve tried that didn’t work, you can be assured the recipe was well-tested. And not to sound like a broken record, but when I test recipes I try them with various amounts of flour, baking powder, sugar, eggs, butter, cream, etc., before I land on the one that I consider the best version. When others say to people who want less butter or whatever in a dessert with “Just eat less!” I agree that’s usually a better strategy than cutting back on things the recipe developer slaved over to reach their published conclusions, i.e.; the book.
(Sorry to take a moment here for just a little public service announcement: I made the pecan praline that you see above a few days in advance and it was impossible not to sneak a bit every now and then. Okay…it was more often than “now and then” so if you’re okay with a little math, you may want to make a little more. Just so you know, you’ll need about 2 cups/300g to make the recipe. You could probably sneak a few pieces for yourself which won’t affect the recipe, but I was dangerously close to going over that allotment.)
These cookies require a few steps but as the headnote says, “…the point of jumping through all these baking hoops is that you’ll be happy you put in the effort” when they’re done. I knew I was on the right path after I made the brittle, which was easy, but yes – it was a step. The brittle requires you to heat up sugar and butter – but no thermometer is needed – then add the nuts and spread it out until the mixture is cool. Half the brittle is ground up with oats and flour and the other half is added to the cookie dough so there are melting pockets of praline running through the cookies.
There’s also browning of butter and doing everyone’s least favorite kitchen project: hauling out the food processor. I don’t know why but I guess it’s because it’s something that’s not used very often for most of us, so we store it away until we need it. Then, when you do need it, it’s that big, bulky thing with the feed tube sticking out of the top and that overly long cord that seems to wrap its way around whatever is near it, that gets dragged out of the cabinet and you mentally calculate if the cord is long enough so you can safely haul out the food processor without yanking out the blender or sack of flour the cord is hooked around, or if you need to stop and free up the cord.
当我分配面团时，我想，“哇，这些饼干很大！”然后我记得，“......哦，那些古怪的美国人”，实现了他们是美国大小的饼干。在我做完之后，我看到了克莱尔posted a videoof making these cookies and she goofed and made them the wrong size, and started cutting the portioned cookie balls into thirds, etc. to get them to the size indicated in the book. I tested them using half the amount of dough recommended per cookie, making notes on the various cooking times (a few photos above) as I went, and they came out just fine.
Like Norma Desmond in Sunset Boulevard who was told, “You used to be big” when they counted her out, and replied “I是big. It’s the pictures that got small.”
For the pecan brittle
- 1 1/2cups (140g)whole pecans那coarsely chopped
- 3/4cup (150g)granulated sugar
- 4.汤匙（55g）unsalted butter
- 1/2teaspoonbaking soda
- 1/2teaspoonflaky sea salt or Diamond Crystal kosher salt
For the cookie dough
- 8.ounces (230g)unsalted butter那分开（半应该是冷的）和立方
- 1 1/3cups (175g)flour
- 2teaspoonsflaky sea salt or Diamond Crystal kosher salt
- 1teaspoonbaking soda
- 2cups (200g)老式滚动的燕麦那（不是即时或快速烹饪）
- 3/4cup (150g)(packed) dark brown sugar
- 1/2cup (100g)granulated sugar
- 1到2teaspoonsvanilla extract
To make the pecan brittle
熄火,马上加入核桃pieces until well coated, then quickly stir in the baking soda and salt. Still working quickly, scrape the mixture on the prepared baking sheet and spread it as evenly as possible. Set aside to cool completely. Once cool, chop the brittle into pieces the size of large peas with a chef's knife. (If you plan to finish making the cookie dough later, store the brittle bits in an airtight container, preferably somewhere where you won't be tempted to snitch them!) You want to use all the brittle, including all the little tiny bits left on the cutting board too.
To make the cookie dough
Place half (4 ounces/115g) of the (cold) cubed butter in a bowl of a stand mixer and put the other half in a medium skillet or saucepan. Melt the butter over medium heat, stirring and scraping the bottom and sides of the pan frequently with a heatproof spatula. The butter will start to sputter and foam, and then begin to brown. Keep cooking the butter just until you see browned bits floating it in. Remove from the heat and pour it over the cubed butter in the mixing bowl, scraping any and all brown bits in the pan into the butter. Let cool for about 30 minutes, until the two butters start to become solid again.
Scoop the dough into 1/4 cup (2oz) rounds on a parchment covered small baking sheet. (You can also make them half that size. See headnote.) Cover the dough tightly and refrigerate for 12 hours, or up to 4 or 5 days.