Skip to content
48Shares

madeleines.jpg

[Update:2018年,新主人接管了布莱·苏克雷(BléSucré)。其中一些项目已经改变,这些玛德琳可能不再可用。你可以找到我的Lemon-glazed madeleine recipe here。]。

The best Madeleines in the world are right here in Paris. Well…duh. You don’t need to visit my blog to know that, do you? I’ve never been one of those people who waxed poetically about Madeleines, invoking Proust’s name whenever I can. (As if I’ve even read Proust.)

So although I don’t have nostalgic ties to玛德莲蛋糕, I do like the idea of something a bit buttery, with a gilded crust, relatively portable, and not-too-sweet for my afternoongouter, orle snack, as it’s often referred to around town.

But most of the time I’m disappointed. The Madeleine I buy is either too dry, too floury, or worse, has the acrid taste of baking powder. But then the skies parted one day when I was at a new bakery in Paris,Blé Sucré,在非常愉快的广场特鲁索(Trousseau)。这个boulangerieand pastry shop is owned byFabrice Le Bourdat.

玛德莲蛋糕are the proverbial ‘little something’ that goes well with tea. But to be honest, there’s nothing that makes me cringe more than when I read in the headnote of a recipe in a cookbook,“This goes well with tea in the afternoon.”

我的意思是,有什么甜蜜的东西不是吗?如果这是关于食谱最令人兴奋的事情,那么它在食谱中做了什么?


Perhaps because it’s far from the madding crowds, prices atblé sucréare very reasonable but the quality is unquestionably high. I’m not going to tell you about the deeply-dark homemade caramels with salted butter or the shatteringly-flakycroissantsthey coincidentally seem to be coming out of the oven whenever I walk in the door. Nor will I mention the little sacks full of tender little almondfinanciersor the freezer full of housemade ice creams that made its début appearance just last week.

But these Madeleines are all that a Madeleine should be: Tender little cakes with the fine, flavor of soft French flour and bronzed with a butter crust. But the icing on the cake (or should I say the icing on the Madeleine?) is the light citrusy glaze that moistens and elevates these Madeleines from being something ordinary to being moist, yet delicately-dainty little cakes that make writers rhapsodize about. And although I enjoy them as a little snack, I also would agree that they’re definitely tea-worthy. Just don’t tell anyone I said that.

Blé Sucré
Square Trousseau
7, rue Antoine Vollon (12th)
Tél: 01 43 40 77 73
Métro: Ledru-Rollin

48Shares

31 comments

    • Judith in Umbria

    What, I ask, is wrong with the world that tea gets mentioned with afternoon? What is wrong with sherry or marsala? I should think Madelaines and any of the sipping wines would be better than nasty old tea.

      • Jeanne

      Mmmm… these babies seem worth the trek to Square Trousseau. My least favourites are rubbery madeleines – they give their species a bad name… A citrussy glaze is such a wonderful way to lift these into the realms of the sublime! Another thing to add to my Paris to do list for next time.

        • Mary

        Citrus glaze on a madeleine? Sounds divine. I won’t be in Paris this summer, but I’ll pass on the address to all my friends who will. Thanks.

          • nex0s

          Those sound marvelous. So far, the best Madeleines I’ve had were ones fresh out of my own oven. I think, as with so many other items, freshness is the real key with them. The next time I am Paris though (won’t be for years, sadly) I will try and have these. I love Madeleines!

            • jef

            I think you made a pretty good point:

            “But most of the time (ok…always) I’m disappointed. The Madeleine I buy is either too dry, too floury, or worse, has the acrid taste of baking powder.”

            在巴黎,就像其他任何地方一样,您可以获得与主要标本相提并论的烘焙食品。同样,我敢肯定,您几乎可以在世界上其他任何地方都能获得与您展示的人相提并论的地方。

              • Lynn

              Those look delicious. Since I’m a fan of tea, I’d definitely have them with tea. But since I drink tea all day long, that’s not putting any kind of boundaries on when I can eat cookies.

              Could you please explain what’s with the Madeleine “bump?” Is it important? A sure sign of a good one?

                • katie

                Proust may definately be long, but it’s worth the read! And coincidently, it is now generally thought that he was actually dipping stale toast into his tea in place of madeleines… but that doesn’t have quite the same poetic ring to it.

                  • Estelle

                  Oh David, I have been searching for a worthy Madeleine recipe. Do you have one? Can you reccommend where I can find a superb recipe.

                    • Kelly-Jane

                    Hi David, your madeleines look lovely.

                    I wanted to say that I have been anticipating your ice cream book, and although it hasn’t come on sale in the UK yet I ordered a copy from the US and it’s arrived.

                    Gorgeous book! Well done, I haven’t read it all yet, but I’m making date, rum and pecan ice cream this weekend. Thank you for another great book.

                      • Joanne

                      I adore madeleines. I have found the best ones are the ones I make myself also. I’ve always made mine with fresh homegrown Meyer lemon zest.

                      What is with that bump? I try to avoid it with mine. Intentionally underfilling the molds to avoid it. I also tend to prefer mine on the lightly golden side. But it’s rather hard with all that butter in the molds.

                      Hmmm, now I must tinker with a light citrus glaze to top off the next batch.

                        • Shira

                        Perhaps it’s a case of the best boulangeries not being so good at pastry and vice versa, but I have to say that I wasn’t wowed by their baguette. However, since the bakery is only a few minutes from home and the markets, I’ll certainly give the pastries a go.

                          • David

                          Estelle: The only recipe I’ve ever made that tasted authentic was inCooking At Home on Rue Tatin(which is noticed in on sale at Amazon for only $7.49!) They’re flavored with lemon verbena, but being a cranky purist, I leave that out.

                          Joanne: The hump, I think, tends to get over-exaggerated (due to M. Proust!) Hence the copious amount of baking powder people tend to add .

                          I always,alwaysuseRumfordaluminum-free baking powder to avoid that metallic taste. (If any of you out there don’t use it, dump what you have down the drain and go buy a tin of it…they sell it at many stores, including Trader Joes.)

                          Some people freeze the madeleine sheet, filled with batter, prior to baking. I haven’t baked them that much…and since I haveblé sucrénearby making such delicious ones, why bother?

                          Kelly-Jane: There was a shipping issue that needed to be worked out with the overseas deliveries, but they should be available around now. Glad your copy arrived and you’re enjoying the book!

                          Judith: Thanks, as usual, for the chuckle!

                          Jef: I used to like the Donsumor madeleines available in the Bay Area, but haven’t tasted them in a while. Now I’m hooked on, and closer to, the ones atblé sucré

                            • Lesley

                            Great to hear that Gilles Marchal has struck out on his own. Not only is he one of the best pastry chefs in France, he’s one of the nicest guys around.

                              • 巴黎Breakfasts

                              Whoops I’m guilty of buying those little packaged madeleines they sell in the train station machines..I have to say I loved every fake lemony crumb but I’m ready to be converted.

                                • Sylee/Berlin Reified

                                A million thanks for the tip! I sped over to blé sucré this morning after reading your post and was blown away by the Madeleines, as were the friends I shared them with. The caramels I saved for my next visit (read: tomorrow).

                                  • Karin

                                  Marcel Proust left out one important detail: The recipe.

                                  “她派出了那些称为小玛德琳(Madeleines)的短而丰满的小蛋糕之一,看上去好像它们是在朝圣者壳的凹槽扇贝中模制的。很快,机械地,疲倦的一天,疲倦的一天,淡淡的明天,我抬起了一汤匙的茶,在这些茶中浸泡了蛋糕。温暖的液体很快就会碰到我的味蕾,而不是颤抖的整个身体,我停下来,打算发生了发生的非凡变化……立刻,生活中的生活变得对我无动于衷,它的灾难无害,简洁的虚幻……。

                                  Did anyone ever asked him for the recipe?.

                                    • Karin

                                    Sorry ….
                                    Did anyone ever ask him for the recipe?

                                      • faustianbargain

                                      the best madelines i have ever made has a spanish twist..a little nutty with pistachios, saffron and orange zest. baked in a madeline mold, of course.

                                      re french madelines, the secret is to add a little finely ground almond flour.

                                        • mmm

                                        从什么时候开始,trousseau是什么时候?就在Marche d'Aligre旁边!

                                          • Mercedes

                                          I agree, I always find madeleines boring, my madeleine pan is actually rusting over. However, I did make some cornmeal madeleines at Thanksgiving to be topped with creme fraiche and caviar, and they were delicious. I credit the corn-muffin type batter though.

                                            • Val

                                            Hey David…Did you read the good review of your book over atMichael Ruhlman’s Blog?

                                            It looks like you have another ice cream fan…

                                              • wayne

                                              玛德莲蛋糕I can do without, more of a savory man. If you want to get a good picture of Proust though, without tackling his oeuvre, check out the book “Monsieur Proust” by Celeste Albaret. She was his girl Friday. Aside from her turning a blind eye to some aspects of his character it gives an interesting portrait of an eccentric genius. Sadly, after reading this, one suspects that were Proust alive today they would give him some type of anti-anxiety medication and he would merely have a column at Vanity Faire.

                                                • PierreHermeRulesTheWorld

                                                I gave a couple of their fruity pastries a try.
                                                They were not bad, but a little bland.
                                                I am used to fruits being much tastier when I cook or when I go to Pierre Herme.
                                                I will not go back.

                                                  • tom

                                                  Well, perhaps you have found the best in Paris, but you will have to fight the good citoyens of the province of Lorraine, who lay claim to the madeleine. When I lived there, these were considered the speciality I believe of the town of Commercy. Absolutely delicious madeleines to be procured there.
                                                  如果您访问,您还可以看到那里那座可爱的小城堡。

                                                    • David

                                                    Tom: Curiously, a couple of weeks ago I was on a train to Strasbourg and we passed through Commercy! I wanted to hop out and see if I could find a good Madeleine, since the only ones I’ve seen from Commercy are the pre-packaged ones (that are strangely orange-yellow.)

                                                    On my next trip, I’ll take a stop-over. Thanks for the tip!

                                                      • Laura Stokes-Gray

                                                      我一直很喜欢玛德琳,尤其是那些从我自己的烤箱中出来的。作为神圣之心宗教的前学生,这种小甜食尤其靠近我的心,因为该公司的成员是圣玛德琳·索菲·巴拉特(St. Madeleine Sophie Barat)(出生于法国的乔尼(Joigny))!我经常在面糊中磨碎一点柠檬或橙皮,但会尝试柠檬釉。我为什么不考虑这样做?柠檬也会称赞我的蜂蜜玛德琳。啊,过去的普鲁斯特人记住,​​激发了现在和未来!谢谢大卫!

                                                        • Vivian Escaravage-Perez

                                                        I am a freelance food writer and I am writing and I am writing an article about madeleines. I need to a pastry chef to interview for my article about madeleines. Do you know any pastry chef who would be interested? Thank you.

                                                          • Nick

                                                          Hi David,

                                                          I always frequent your blog when searching for great places to find pastries and chocolates in France. Being just a skip across the pond in London, its a shame Eurostar is so expensive!!

                                                          Anyway, thanks to your writeup about Ble Sucre, I had the best Croissants, Pain au Chocolat, Madeleine and a really good Financier there. Looking forward to reading about you visiting more places in France!

                                                          Cheers!

                                                          Nick.

                                                            • 格伦·荷兰

                                                            Bugger. I though you were going to crown the story with a recipe.

                                                              • parisbreakfasts

                                                              I am praying Ble Sucre is open on Saturdays!!!!
                                                              OMG that kouign ammmon thing looks to die for!!
                                                              Tanks
                                                              carolg

                                                                • Renee Erickson

                                                                hello David,

                                                                I was wondering if you could comment on some restaurants that might be open on New Years and also delicious? Thanks for your help. Your blog is wonderful! Renee

                                                                A

                                                                Get David's newsletter sent right to your Inbox!

                                                                15987

                                                                Sign up for my newsletter and get my FREE guidebook to the best bakeries and pastry shops in Paris...

                                                                Baidu