Ble Sucre: The Best Madeleines in Paris
[Update:2018年,新主人接管了布莱·苏克雷(BléSucré)。其中一些项目已经改变,这些玛德琳可能不再可用。你可以找到我的Lemon-glazed madeleine recipe here。]。
The best Madeleines in the world are right here in Paris. Well…duh. You don’t need to visit my blog to know that, do you? I’ve never been one of those people who waxed poetically about Madeleines, invoking Proust’s name whenever I can. (As if I’ve even read Proust.)
So although I don’t have nostalgic ties to玛德莲蛋糕, I do like the idea of something a bit buttery, with a gilded crust, relatively portable, and not-too-sweet for my afternoongouter, orle snack, as it’s often referred to around town.
But most of the time I’m disappointed. The Madeleine I buy is either too dry, too floury, or worse, has the acrid taste of baking powder. But then the skies parted one day when I was at a new bakery in Paris,Blé Sucré,在非常愉快的广场特鲁索(Trousseau)。这个boulangerieand pastry shop is owned byFabrice Le Bourdat.
玛德莲蛋糕are the proverbial ‘little something’ that goes well with tea. But to be honest, there’s nothing that makes me cringe more than when I read in the headnote of a recipe in a cookbook,“This goes well with tea in the afternoon.”
我的意思是,有什么甜蜜的东西不是吗?如果这是关于食谱最令人兴奋的事情,那么它在食谱中做了什么?
Perhaps because it’s far from the madding crowds, prices atblé sucréare very reasonable but the quality is unquestionably high. I’m not going to tell you about the deeply-dark homemade caramels with salted butter or the shatteringly-flakycroissantsthey coincidentally seem to be coming out of the oven whenever I walk in the door. Nor will I mention the little sacks full of tender little almondfinanciersor the freezer full of housemade ice creams that made its début appearance just last week.
But these Madeleines are all that a Madeleine should be: Tender little cakes with the fine, flavor of soft French flour and bronzed with a butter crust. But the icing on the cake (or should I say the icing on the Madeleine?) is the light citrusy glaze that moistens and elevates these Madeleines from being something ordinary to being moist, yet delicately-dainty little cakes that make writers rhapsodize about. And although I enjoy them as a little snack, I also would agree that they’re definitely tea-worthy. Just don’t tell anyone I said that.
Blé Sucré
Square Trousseau
7, rue Antoine Vollon (12th)
Tél: 01 43 40 77 73
Métro: Ledru-Rollin