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我在成为的道路上学到的首批课程之一Un Vrai巴黎ian was to never, ever be on time. I should backtrack and say: One should never to be on time when invited for dinner party. The hosts, who called with my first invitation to aSoiréeabout a week after I arrived in Paris, said“Come at 8pm…But you know, in Paris, that means to come at 8:30pm.”

随后,当我有客人吃晚饭时,我希望他们迟到约20分钟,尽管关于您实际上应该有多晚的争论很多。但是,如果您准时或提早,您可能会意外地抓住主人的脚步。

当您邀请人们吃晚饭时,这是一个棘手的平衡玫瑰。现在甚至以后变得时尚,仿佛表明您有哦,很糟糕在您的议程上,这使得迟到的状态象征。但是,如果您的朋友迟到了一个小时,并且您做了类似猪肉烤的东西,可以在一分钟内变干,那就搞砸了。那么,您只会感谢他们没有早点到达并抓住您petit slipfrançais

In Paris, with so many Arabic and North African butchers around, it’s easy to find cuts of meat that lend themselves to slow-braising and making North African stews like Tagines. Being a pastry chef since the beginning of time, I was always a little terrified of meat, never quite knowing how to handle it. But I bravely started going into the butcher shops, inspecting the enormous slabs of meat trying to look as if I knew something about them, then I’d make my pick. Conveying how to cut it for me is another story, but most of the time, chopping my hands through the air like Helen Keller doing karate seems to get the point across. My Arabic is terrible, so most of the time, I end up bringing home a lamb shoulder, since it’s inexpensive, not terribly fatty, and most importantly…easy to point to since they keep them right in front of the butcher cases. (Ok, lamb shoulder’s also hard to ruin.)

For some reason, leaner cuts of meat usually taste better in restaurants than when I make them at home. I don’t know why. But stewing cuts of meat, like lamb shoulder, I find I can make taste equally as good, or better, than anything I get when I go out. I’ve been making Tagines for the past few years with great success and once you start with a solid master recipe, like the one below, you can vary it for different kinds of meat or poultry, and you can make them as spicy or aromatic as you want by adjusting the spices. And since most benefit from long, leisurely braise in the oven, they’re perfect when you’re entertaining guests who arrive at various times, leaving you free to assist in the all-important task of making sure you guests have plenty of cool玫瑰在他们的眼镜中。但也不要忽略你的。

炖羊锅

You can substitute chicken for the lamb. Cut it into 8 pieces and reduce the oven time to about 1 to 1½ hours. I also like to add a handful, say about 1/2 cup (75g) toasted, blanched almonds to the stew during the final 30 minutes of braising, or some green olives. Another option is to add prunes or dried California apricots, which add a sublime sweetness. I used to add strips of salty preserved lemons, but I’d always wake up in the middle of the night ravenously thirsty and have to chug a few liters of water, so now I don’t anymore. Often Tagines are served with big hunks of softly-baked bread sprinkled with anise seeds, I prepare cracked wheat or bulgur to serve underneath with a bit of chopped parsley added at the end. I’ve find it preferable to bread of couscous since it’s a whole grain and the fabulously nutty and crunchy grains are really a delightful chew. And so guests can customize their Tagine, I pass little dishes of plumped yellow raisins, homemade sweet shallot marmalade, and chick peas.
  • 1羊肉shoulder,切成6件(让屠夫做)
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1中等大小的洋葱,剁碎
  • 1 1/2cups (375ml)鸡肉汤,or water
  • 1茶匙干姜干
  • 1 1/2茶匙粗盐,如有必要的话加上更多
  • 1茶匙turmeric
  • 2茶匙sweet paprika
  • 2cinnamon sticks
  • freshly-ground black pepper
  • 1一束香菜,rinsed and tied with a string, coriandre
  • 20threads of saffron
  • juice of 1/2 lemon
  • 在您打算制作塔金(Tagine)之前,最多三天,用盐按摩羔羊的肩膀,然后在烹饪之前坐在冰箱中。
  • To make the Tagine, in a heavy-duty Dutch oven, heat a few tablespoons of oil and sear the lamb pieces very well, turning them only after they’re nicely dark, browned, and crusty (this helps add flavor to the Tagine.) As you cook them, don’t crowd ’em in. If your Dutch oven isn’t big enough to cook them all in a single layer at once, brown the lamb pieces in batches.
  • Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (175 C). Once the lamb is browned, add the onions and some of the stock, then scrape the bottom of the pan with a flat wooden spatula to release the flavorful browned bits. Add the remaining stock, then the spices, the bunch of cilantro, and the saffron.
  • Cover the pan and bake in the oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, turning the lamb over in the liquid a few times during the oven-braising. The liquid should just be steaming-hot and simmering gently. If it’s boiling, turn down the heat (some Dutch ovens conduct heat differently.) When the meat starts to fall apart easily, that’s when it’s ready. It’s hard to overcook lamb shoulder, so even an extra hour or so in the oven won’t hurt it.
  • Remove the lid and let the Tagine remain in the oven for another 30 minutes, so the juices reduce, becoming rich and savory.

Notes

To serve, remove the cilantro and discard. Squeeze some lemon juice into the liquid and add more salt if you think it needs it. Serve mounds of cracked wheat underneath the Tagine, with lots of the juices poured over. At the table, make sure you have a tube of harissa handy, the fire-y Moroccan hot sauce, for those of us who like spicy food, as I do.

冰糕 For dessert, I recommend something fruity and refreshing, like a scoop ofSour Cherry Frozen Yogurt,从我的书中The Perfect Scoop

I like it served with a fruity库里斯由红覆盆子制成cassis(黑加仑子)与炒樱桃混合在一起,是由本赛季的最后樱桃制成的,我会非常想念。

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14 comments

    • 盖尔

    好的,由于我们的手机,我们再次为迟到而道歉。(回复:晚2个条目)我们认为猪肉不那么干!

      • 马特

      I am a lamb fanatic, having grown up on my mom’s tender, flavorful lamb tacos.

      It’s time to break out the tagine and try this. Thanks so much David!

      p.s. I’m habitually and absurdly punctual. The French would be a challenge for me!

        • Alex

        Mmmmmm everything in that post sounds absolutely delightful and delicious and perfect. I’m part Lebanese, so I have a love for Arabic food. I too am very sad to see the cherries go. They dropped out of season here in the Bay Area about three weeks ago, and now all you can get are the Washington ones.

          • Diva

          只是渴望morrocan保存的柠檬..谢谢
          您的甜点Foto是Fab!恭喜!

            • michèle

            hey, I thought you were president of the Picard fan club? I heard they have to send an extra recycling truck to your neighbourhood just because of all the Picard boxes you discard..

              • Kevin

              我不得不回应马特对习惯性的情绪 - 我将成为巴黎人的傻瓜。至少我会选择开胃菜!

                • Kevin

                大卫,
                这个周末我做了一个鸡肉。橄榄和CECI都是好主意。

                  • Cathy

                  大卫,我迫不及待地想尝试您的食谱 - 而且时机也很好,因为我们上周刚刚购买了Tagine!而且屠夫也吓到我了,但是我只是把它粉刷成肉在法国的肉中没有像在美国一样。

                    • brenda

                    您使用全谷物保加利亚还是用于塔布利的那种?谢谢,这道菜听起来很棒!

                      • 诺亚

                      I know this is an old post, but just wanted to tell you that we had a bunch of people over for dinner last night and cooked this. It was really successful! And it’s a great dish for serving guests – like you said, it lets you focus on other things when the people show up.

                        • violette kogut

                        I have learn how to make a tajine in Morocco, it’s very easy to make and not always to be put into the oven,one can cook it over the stove top.
                        By the way I am French and we are on time for an invitation-otherwise it’s very impolite to arrive late.

                          • 大卫

                          Violette: Yes, many people do make tajine on the stovetop. How fun to learn in Morocco!

                          我总是被告知在巴黎,如果您被邀请吃晚饭,应该尊重L'Heure d’Apéro, and arrive 15-20 minutes after the invited time. Although that might be a Parisiantruc;)

                            • Bobbie Zenebe

                            I made the lamb tagine last night and it was fantastic. There are different versions of this recipe and david thanks for simplifying it. I also baked your banana bread recipe a couple of days ago and it was to die for. I’m now getting many requests from friends to make it again. I live in London and we’ve a huge Morrocan community, some of the best Tagine you can find on this side of the channel. So please feel free to drop us a line if you venture out to this side of the channel, and we’d be glad to show you around. Thanks David.

                              • 艾莉森·惠特克罗夫特(Alison Wheatcroft)

                              我不是一个“甜蜜”的人,但我的儿子给了我一个完美的勺子,我从中制作了许多冰淇淋,真是太好了。很高兴看到您的咸味食谱。我将尝试您的Tajine食谱。非常感谢您的启发布丁。

                              AW

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