Merguez & Pastrami

25条万博ios客户端评论-10.14.2016

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[更新：2018年秋天，Merguez＆Pastrami关闭，该空间将成为同一所有者的餐厅Saul's，提供类似的专业。]

这most interesting neighborhood right now in Paris is the 9^Tharndissement。Walk in any various directions from a métro station after you land there, and you’ll find yourself in a completely different neighborhood, whether it’s surrounded by stately buildings on the Avenue Trudaine or the Square d’Anvers lorded over by Sacré Cœur (which hosts one of the rare afternoon/early evening巴黎的室外市场）。这里有烈士的街，一条充满活力的巧克力商店，冰淇淋和面包店的街道，以及很棒的咖啡店，，，，面包店，，，，grilled葡萄牙烤鸡，acandy emporium人们从世界各地旅行去参观，并储备焦糖，巧克力和其他法国糖果。

巴巴斯（Barbès）位于9号西北角，是一个越来越舒适的社区。半潮湿的黄铜啤酒打开了，尖叫着“绅士化”，但在马路对面的梅特罗车站仍然有年轻人，呼吸呼吸时，他们是否对伪装香烟或拉克斯特衬衫有兴趣。如果您允许我使用陈词滥调；巴黎的这一部分有时被称为“巴黎的布鲁克林”，因此巴黎人真的不必带L威廉斯堡为了解决他们的修复。这只是一个梅特罗的旅程。

I’ve been loitering around the neighborhood for years and I love it. (Although a friend had his iPhone lifted at the Barbès métro station, which was offered back to him…for a price.) One of the good things about the rise of interest in this neighborhood is that a number of very good places to eat have opened, which reflect a more casual style of eating and dining out that appeals to Parisians these days. One such place isMerguez & Pastrami熟食。

Delicatessen是欧洲概念。这个词是从德国人翻译的熟食店katessen，结合了两个德语单词，熟食店kat和essen- 令人愉悦的食物，据说其中的第一部分源自法语单词，délicatesse，，，，or ‘a delicacy.’ So it’s natural since France is part of Europe, to have a delicatessen that fits right into the capital. And I’m glad someone has finally done it.

令我震惊的是，而不是从纽约或蒙特利尔复制一些东西，而是大卫一种zoulay制作了巴黎美食，菜单上享有靠近东欧的食物 - 自制百吉饼和熏制的肉 - 以及北非和中东的菜肴，是法国丰富种族组合的文化，就像法国的一部分一样汉堡包（德国），披萨（意大利）和芝士蛋糕（希腊）反映了构成美国的文化混乱。

大卫出生于巴黎，是摩洛哥和意大利母亲的父亲。当我听说Merguez & Pastrami，我在心理上将其视为我想参观的地方，对这个名字很感兴趣，这将我非常喜欢的两件事结合在一起：辣Merguez香肠和熏制牛肉。然后有一天，当我在附近做差事时，我经过它，停下来，抓住了一张卡。几天后，我发现自己在桌子上后尾晚餐，在Tiki喝酒之后肮脏的家伙。

我感谢Merguez＆Pastrami的菜单如何与较小的盘子组织（主菜）for sharing, and larger plates (AssiettesComposées）– which are also good for sharing (if you’re like me and want to taste a lot of things) – that revolve around a theme. Some highlight pastrami, smoked in-house, others around merguez, or fafalel, which is perfect for vegetarians. We had a great time at dinner, and I liked it so much, I went back a few days later for lunch and to meet David.

I congratulated David on creating a restaurant that is just the right place for the various kinds of foods that are available in Paris to come together on the same table. Middle Eastern food is getting better-represented at mid-range places, in addition to the ubiquitous kebab stands, but it’s rare to find the food made in-house, as it is here.

Soon the merguez will be offered as meatballs (which I have a recipe for in my book,我的巴黎厨房）即将在下一个菜单上进行，以使其更具吸引力。玫瑰色的香肠在法国享有偏低的声誉，在经过漫长的啤酒燃料狂欢之后，狼wold狼与一堆狼一样。frites用香肠塞进面包。当我问戴维（David）为什么他为自己的熟食店重新构想时，他说：“因为你是美国人，”大概是因为他们对我们没有相同的含义。

Like fresh corn, another food that doesn’t get the same adulation that it does in the U.S., the French are, however, taking to sweet potatoes more and more, which are often available at markets that cater to Africans. But when they are cooked as “frites” until crisp, concentrating their natural sweetness, and paired with tangy yogurt sauce, it’s very hard not to like them, no matter where you’re from.

大卫花了一年的时间在soon-to-close Carnegie Deli在纽约，并在这个地方命名了他超大的糕点三明治。这卡内基加载五香熏牛肉，以及辣根蛋黄酱，生菜和西红柿。I’m normally a purist about pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, preferring just meat (and lots of it) piled between two slices of warm rye bread with only a swipe of mustard, but understanding that this is a Parisian deli, I’m not surprised by lettuce and tomato. The housemade bread it’s served on is another plus in its favor.

这re’s alsoRuben’s Cousin，，，，a nod to the original, but with beet mayonnaise, cabbage and cheddar melted over the pastrami. TheYaffosandwich (below) leaves the falafels on the rue de Rosiers in the dust. Freshly fried chickpea fritters are packed in warm, housemade pita with harissa (Tunisian hot sauce) eggplant, tomatoes and tahini.

这sister sandwich,Sabich，，，，is a heap of hummus, fried onions, egg, cilantro pesto, eggplant, pumpkin compote and tahini – whew! Bonus: If you’re a vegetarian, there’s plenty for you to enjoy here.

就像菜单上的其他所有内容一样，从面包到烟熏肉，所有甜点都是fait maison，，，，made on the premises.

毫无疑问，季节性的苹果塔丁·帕夫洛娃（Apple Tatin Pavlova）在午餐后很难结束。但是我尽了我最大的努力，深入研究了焦糖的苹果和山核桃填充的酥皮，并尽我所能。大卫并没有成为甜食的超载，而是指出焦糖“治愈”了奶油，并很好地平衡了两者。我？我正在挖掘出完美的焦糖苹果，在超大的甜点上尽我所能，这可能是最好的分享。

Delicatessen可以很好地停留在午餐中，尤其是如果您步行到蒙马特，或者在去旅行后需要复活MarchéSaint-Pierre布料商店，我勇敢几次。(Tip: Even if you’re not into fabric, this multi-level store sells bistro-style tablecloths and napkins at very good prices. Plus they have probably the last elevator in Paris with an attendant in it, to take you up and down. Another tip: Don’t touch the elevator buttons.)