The name of one French dessert that people find confusing is crème caramel. Caramel-topped custards like this are called flan in Spanish, which confounds people who come to France and see a slice of flan in a bakery, that looks like (and is) a tart baked with a flour-stiffened custard, rather than the wobbly, caramel-topped custard that some of us are used to. To confuse people…
The first time I had chicken cooked caramel sauce was at The Slanted Door in San Francisco. “Caramel? With chicken?” I thought. But once I tasted it, I didn’t need to wonder why it became their signature dish. Back then, The Slanted Door was a small restaurant in the Mission, on a street that was notable for Latin markets, edgy bars, and burritos. Things have…
我已经看到（吃完了！）蛋糕在世界上几个国家都有焦糖杏仁，但我自己从未尝试过。我喜欢任何覆盖着脆脆，坚果，焦糖（包括著名的Chez Panisse Almond Tart）的东西，并且在梦见我尝试过的许多变化之后，似乎是时候最终要解决自己制作一个。我尝试了一些类似的...
It’s been a turbulent week and I went into my usual default mode: I baked something. I’d been planning on sharing an apple cake recipe with you, having cooked up some apples and bought some dates in preparation. But one morning I awoke very early after a fitful night of sleep and started pitting dates, in the early hours of the day, before the sun came…
当我在完美的独家新闻中最终确定食谱时，我写了太多食谱，需要为食谱中的所有其他内容腾出空间。尽管我确实包括了最喜欢的梨焦糖冰淇淋食谱，从而获得了焦糖梨的光滑丰富性，但我决定是因为我的第一本书有一个很好的焦糖冰淇淋食谱（这本书被重新发布为…
[更新：Monéclair于2018年春季关闭。]最近，我是法国24电视小组的一部分，辩论了这一主题：“关于法国美食的争论。”不过，一旦摄像机滚动，它不是一个辩论，而是更多的问答环节。但是事先，我们面板上的四个人在大厅里对这个主题进行了非常活跃的讨论，这是一定的，…
Not long after I’d arrived in Paris, I met Jacques Genin. At the time, he was working out of a small workshop deep in the 15th arrondissement. Inside, he and his team of five or so worked in a very tight space: A large table where they worked sat in the center of the room, taking up probably 90% of the space, enrobing machines…
我本周去过旧金山，做了一些活动 - 实际上，这是在城里吃饭的借口。旧金山是一个似乎每隔几年重新发明自己的城市。但是，不断朝着相同方向发展的事情是食物的质量和可用成分的质量。我和法国工匠屠夫一起度过了一段时间，遇见了…
[UPDATE: As of September 2022, after 46 years, Madame Acabo has retired and closed her shop in Paris.] When a gas explosion that happened in the basement destroyed her shop, many couldn’t believe that one of their favorite chocolate shops in Paris was gone, including Denise Acabo herself. I visited her shortly afterward and she was in shock, missing her store – but most of all, missing…
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